Tant Saree
Tant sarees are traditional cotton sarees that are manufactured in West Bengal and Bangladesh. The looms in Bengal are called “Tant”, hence the sarees woven here came to be Known as Tant saree. The sarees made using cotton threads are light-weight, transparent and very comfortable to wear .
A Tant saree is characterized by design on a broad border, with a decorated aanchal(pallav). The body of the saree has small running Buties
or Stripes
that add to its beauty. With an intricate design, weavers can take upto a week to complete one saree.
The origin of these sarees can be traced back to 15th century in Dhaka , the capital of modern day Bangladesh. Fabric making has been an age old craft in Dhaka, the weavers here had mastered the art of weaving the finest muslin cloth. It was a popular item for trade to other parts of the world.
The weaving industry saw its golden age during the Mughal period. Under the royal patronage from Mughals, the finest variety of muslin was produced. Fine motifs with coloured threads and zari woven all over that gave a luxurious finish were much loved by the Mughal women. This style of weaving is known as Jamdani. Dhaka’s Jamdani muslin was one of the most prestigious and lucrative exports of the Mughal empire. It was in great demand in the European countries in the 17-18th centuary. Another style of weaving developed in Tangail region of Bangladesh which used silk thread along with cotton to make a soft and comfortable fabric.
After the partition of Bengal in 1947 many weavers migrated to India and settled in different towns of West Bengal. They brought the technique of fine weaving in India. Over the years, along with the local craftsmen developed their own style of sarees. Some Towns like Phulia, Shantipur, Dhaniakhali and Hooghly are well Known for weaving fine Tant sarees. Each of these region developed their own style of weaving inspired from their new surrounding. Every town has its own blend of mixed cotton yarn. These subtle differences, makes the tant, one of the most diverse range of handloom. The British company rulers tried to destroy this art to protect the textile industry of Manchester, but the diverse nature and adaptability of tant culture, is key factor for its survival.
Tant saree is usually classified based on the region where they were woven, motifs depicted on them determine the cost. The major regions of tant production in West Bengal today are:
- Dhaniakhali (or Dhonekhali in Hooghly): Tant sarees from this region are of good quality, mainly come in pastel shades and have striped patterns and fewer motifs.
- Begampur (in Hooghly): Begampur specializes in loosely woven, light-weight and translucent sarees in deep, bright colours.
- Atpur (in Hooghly): This town was known for producing coarser sarees and dhotis for everyday wear. The term “Atpoure” which means “common wear” denotes the Bengali style of wearing sarees which used to be the traditional way of draping for women of this region.
- Fulia and Shantipur (in Nadia): Combining the weaving styles of the original Shantipur weavers and the migrant weavers from Tangail who settled in Fulia, this region has developed the “Fulia Tangail” style of weaving and produces among the best quality tant sarees today. These tants are soft and fine in texture, come in vibrant colours and have large, intricately woven motifs.
- Kalna (in Burdwan): Tants from this region are based on the Tangail style of weaving.
Tant sarees are not only comfortable to drape, they are quite affordable . It requires less maintenance which makes them suitable for every-day use. Today, We can get printed, embroidered and even hand painted designs on Tant.
A variation of zari work on Banarasi silk gave rise to Tant Banarasi
. The traditional art of weaving Jamdani, considered the best variety of tant, has been enlisted by UNESCO as a Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.