Maheshwari Saree
The state of Madhya Pradesh produces some of the finest handloom sarees that are manufactured in Chanderi and Maheshwari. While Chanderi has been a weaving centre since as early as 10th century, weaving of Maheshwari sarees started in the 18th century.
Maheshwari sarees are manufactured in Maheshwar, an ancient town famous for its numerous temples built on the banks of river Narmada. Maheshwar is associated for famous Holkar Dynasty, most particularly Queen Rani Ahilya Bai, who ruled the state during 18th century.
Rani Ahilya Bai, shifted her capital from Indore to Maheshwar, the site of ancient city of Mahishmati (said to have been ruled by the legendary Haihaya ruler Kartavirya Arjuna).
Rani Ahilyabai was an able ruler, administrator and a great patron of art and culture. The fort and temples built on the bank of Narmada still attract thousands of tourists every year. The exquisite beauty of this place is captured in many films and TV serials.
The textile industry in Maheshwar was established by Rani Ahilyabai as a way to revive economy of her kingdom. She invited weavers from Surat and nearby Mandu to weave a special fabric for sarees and turbans that could be used not only by the royal household, but also to be given as a gift to the royal guests. It is said that the first saree was designed by the queen herself. The fabric woven here with silk is lightweight and glossy. The simple style saree with beautiful zari border soon became popular and was in great demand.
After the independence, there was a decline in the weaving industry. In 1978 Richard Holkar and his wife Sally decided to revive it. A weavers co-operative society named REHWA was founded to promote this. The society aimed at providing employment, empower women, and save the ancient handloom. Since these were manufactured in Maheshwar, they are known as Maheshwari saree.
Maheshwari sarees are distinguished by their vibrant colours and unusual combination. The uniqueness of the saree lies in the weave. The body of the saree can be plain checked or striped. The typically striped anchal or pallu, and the zari borders are what makes it exclusive. The designs for the borders are inspired by the local architecture. Each kind of saree has a name like Chandrakala, Baigani, Chandratara, Beli and Parbi according to the style on the centre. The borders also have interesting names like rui-phool (cotton flower), diya (lamp), badal (cloud). A wavy border called “Narmada Ji” is inspired by the river ripples, “Jugnu zari” shines like a firefly.
Today, beside saree this fabric is used for making other Indian and Western dresses. The Fabric is Light-weight and airy, suitable for wearing in all seasons. The simple yet elegant fabric is fast becoming popular as it can be used for office and formal wear.
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