Kota-Doria, simply known as Kota Sarees, are very fine handloom that is woven with cotton and silk threads. The fabric is woven in a manner that the final material is light-weight and translucent, which makes it ideal for the warm and dry climate of Rajasthan. The weaving technique creates a one of a kind square pattern, known as “Khat”. A Marwari lady’s wardrobe is incomplete without kota doria.

Doria, meaning thread in native language, is manufactured primarily in Kaithoon, a small village about 15km from Kota. The weaving tradition began here in the 18th centaury. Rao Kishore Singh, then prince of Kota, is credited for creating this industry.

The Prince, who was also a general in the Mughal army, brought with him, weavers from Mysore, with an intension to generate a new economic opportunities within his state. He settled them in Kaithoon, where they are still called Masuriya by the local people. At present there are about 3000 families who are continuing the traditional art.

A traditional saree utilize a blend of 8 cotton and 6 silk yarns. The yarn is treated with onion juice and rice paste to make it strong and shiny. Weaving is done on a traditional pit-loom with a throw shuttle, in a fashion that it produces a distinctive checkered patterns on the fabric, called khat. Traditionally, there should be around 300-350 khats, across the width of the fabric.

In modern times, besides Kota, this fabric is also being manufactured in Muhammadabad and Gohna in Uttar Pradesh, although still marketed as Kota doria.

Originally, material was used for making head gears or the ‘pagadi’ for the members of the royal court. The fabric for commoners were white or beige. The making of sarees came in much later. Now, it’s not just limited to sarees, but expanded into salwar suits, odhni, and even curtains. We can get colourful, printed, as well embroidered designs at a reasonable price.

The Kota Doria might not be a global name like Banarasi or Chanderi, but this 300 year old industry, is an important part of Rajasthani culture and economy.