Zardozi: The imperial craft
The word Zardozi is derived from Persian word ‘Zarin’(Gold) and ‘Dozi’ (sewing) that translates as sewing with Gold. Zardozi is a form of fabric decoration which uses metallic threads to create beautiful motifs. It is a popular embroidery style in India, Iran and Central Asian countries.
The Vedic Texts mention ‘Kalabattu’ a craft of decorating fabric with gold or silver wires along with pearls , precious and semi-precious stones.
Although Zardozi is said to have come to India with the Mughal invaders, a kind of work using gold and silver threads on fabrics existed in India since ancient times. The Vedic Texts mention ‘Kalabattu’ a craft of decorating fabric with gold or silver wires along with pearls , precious and semi-precious stones. This was used in the temples for the God’s attires and other accessories and for the Royal couples.
The craft was at its peak in the 16th-17th centuries under the patronage of Mughals. It was extensively used to enrich the garments of the court, wall hangings, palanquins, royal tents and trappings for elephants and horses. The work involved real gold and silver threads with precious stones, Pearls that made it richer. It was mainly done on heavy silk, velvet and satin.
The making of zardozi involves various stages. The desired pattern is made on a tracing sheet and holes are made along the traced pattern using a needle. This tracing sheet is positioned on the fabric on which the embroidery is to be done. The design is transferred onto the fabric using a mixture of chalk and kerosene that is rubbed with a linen on the tracing sheet. The liquid seeps through the holes and the design impression stays on the fabric. The fabric is now stretched out on a large frame called ‘Adda’. The craftsman or Zardoz as they are called, sits as a group, on the floor behind the frame. There can be six to seven persons working together on a single piece. A simple, crochet-like hooked needle called ‘Arri’ is used for embroidery. It takes about three to four days to complete a six yard saree with four or five craftsmen continuously working on it. Once the embroidery is complete, the thread is flattened out with a light hammer before it is ready for market.
With the decline of Mughal empire, It became difficult for the artisans to survive due to the loss of royal patronage and they moved on to other parts of India. The craft travelled to the royal courts of Awadh, Marwar, Bengal and Gujarat. It was more innovative now, catering to the taste of its new patrons. Earlier, only floral motifs and verses from the Holy Quran were the main subject, but now birds like peacock, parrots and other symbols appeared along with the floral designs. Lower cost metals were also introduced in art to carter to middle-class segment of the region. Today, low cost zardozi with steel sequins are very among Rajasthani tribal.
These days Zardozi has expanded from exquisite evening dresses, to fashion accessories like handbags and belts, to ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia, to even furnishing accessories like wall hangings, curtains and covers. Affordable Zardozi uses silk and shiny threads like Dabka, Kasab and Bulliens that are made with cheaper metals and synthetic threads.
Among all modern hubs of zardozi, Lucknow is only one with GI status because of its unique fusion with Dabka style of thread making.
Lucknow, Jaipur, Bhopal and Kolkata are modern day hub of Zardozi craft. Lucknow is a major centre of Zardozi work in India. An evolved version of Zardozi combined with ‘Dabka’ is said to have emerged in Lucknow. Dabka is a spring type of thread made with a metallic wire that is flattened and twisted around the silk thread. This unique evolution of Lucknow Zardozi has been accorded the Geographical indication in 2013.
The artisans of Jaipur prefer working with ‘Zari’(Golden thread) and ‘Gota’(Golden lace) to make beautiful sarees, lehenga and chunri.
Bhopal is better known for producing fashion accessories. The visitors always carry back beautiful embroidered purses and pouches for souvenirs.
Kolkata is a heaven for all types of embroideries. Here the craftsmen are experimenting with various styles to create new designs. Zardozi patterns are created using a combination of golden threads with coloured silk threads, making it not only beautiful but also affordable. There are numerous materials that a used to complete a fine piece, stretching from Salma(gold wire), Sitara(sequins), Moti(beads) and semi-precious stones etc are added to enhance the value of work.
Although the age of royals has passed, zardozi craft has survived by adapting to the changing economy of market. While it is true that the low cost synthetic threads can never match the grace of real gold and silver threads, the craft remains same. This acceptance to change has not only helped the locals with livelihood, but also kept the tradition alive and thriving.
References: