Kashmiri stitch, popularly known as Kashidakari, is practised mostly by the menfolks of Kashmir. It is said to have evolved during the Mughal era, in the region of modern day Srinagar.

The Kashida motifs are distinctive styles of embroidery in India. These motifs are inspired by the natural beauty and culture of Kashmir. Flowers, vines, leaves, fruits and birds found in the valley are beautifully depicted on the cloth. Samovar, the teapot of Kashmir, also finds a place in kashida motifs.

If you own any Kashmiri dress, or shawl, It probably is Kashidakari handiwork.

Satin-Stitch-Example

Chain-Stitch-Example

Satin and chain stitches were most commonly used in Kashidakari. Single stitch style is considered to be the signature style in Kashida. Few other styles under its wings are:

• Sozni - The patterns appears on the both sides of the garment in varying shades of colour. This style is perfect for shawls that can be worn with either side showing.
• Ari - This uses a hooked needle. Beads, stones and zari may be used to give a rich look.
• Paper Mache - Style wherein the satin stitch is used to create an almost 3d visual effect. The patterns are outlined with black thread. The motifs resemble stained glass work.

The dense embroidery covering the whole body of the garment is called Jaamavar. It is popular on shawls and wedding dresses. Kashmir-Jaal is used to decorate necklines and sleeves of Phirans, which is name given to kashmiri kurties. Jaal, uses an abundance of vines or creepers in its overall design.

Natural fabrics are preferred in Kashidakari, although these days, other materials are also used. The embroidery can be used for both men and women. Besides garments, it is also used for utility items like bed covers, blankets bags wall hangings and carpets.

This traditional form of art is taken up by the younger men of Kashmir as a hereditary ownership from their ancestors. Simple shawls were given to them as a platform to showcase their natural talent. Slowly and gradually with the passing years, They learn different form of variations that suited the changing generation.

Essence of Persian and Kashmiri embroidery are blended together to beautify the fabric, Kashmiri dress can go with every season of the year without compromising on comfort and convenience giving it an international appeal.