Kantha: From rags to riches
Kantha is one of the oldest forms of embroidery that originated in India. It is a craft practised by the women of Bengal and Odisha. It is the story of the ingenuity and creativity of rural women who had mastered the art of transforming rags into useful items. A similar type of craft called ‘Gudri’ is practised in the states of Rajasthan and Gujrat, but it is the execution of the stitches and the motifs by the women of Bengal that makes it unique.
In Bengal, the “kantha” refers to a quilt that is made out of old sarees, dhotis and bed sheets. At least five to six layers of cloth was needed for a quilt. The outer layer was usually white or light coloured. This became a canvas for the women, who expressed their imagination with needle and thread to transform it into a beautiful piece of art. The motifs inspired from their daily life, flowers, birds, animals etc are depicted using simple running stitches Besides quilts, other useful items such as bags, purses and covers for pillows, books and cosmetics were made out of discarded clothes.
Kantha in its simplest form was invented out of necessity. What started as a way to make life more comfortable has become a big fashion trend in clothes and furnishings. Today kantha has found a new meaning. It is not limited to making quilts and covers. It is now done on single layers of cotton, silk and tussar. Sarees, suits, shawl, stoles and various Indian and western clothes are available with Kantha work. Sarees are the most popular product . The motifs are also not restricted to rural imaginations. Several designers and NGOs are working with these women to incorporate various art forms, Indian and western in kantha.
There are different kinds of kantha stitches that are named according to its utility.
- LEP - Kantha done on the quilts.
- SUJNI - This is used for making bed covers and sheets that were spread on the floor for ceremonies.
Lep and sujni are bigger surfaces and need experienced hands. These are also called ‘Nakshi Kantha when the main patterns are made using colored threads and the rest of the cloth is filled with white thread. These days this style is used on sarees, Dupattas and wall hangings. This is the most expensive style in Kantha.
Smaller pieces of cloth are used for making useful and decorative items. The young girls are taught the basics of embroidery on these things.
OOAR - This is used for decorating pillow covers and cushion covers.
RUMAL - Rumal means a handkerchief. This Kantha is done on a square cloth that is used for wiping face or as plate covers.
BAYTON - covers meant to wrap books and other precious objects.
ARSHILATA - covers for mirrors and cosmetic items.
DURJANI - embroidered wallets and purses and handbags.
The first written mention of Kantha appeared about 500 years ago in _Sri Sri chaitany_a Charitamrita written by Krishna Kaviraj.
The craft of utilizing discarded material has existed in India since ancient times. The first written mention of this craft appeared about 500 years ago in _Sri Sri chaitany_a Charitamrita written by Krishna Kaviraj. In this book the author writes about a Kantha quilt sent to him by his mother. Another legend links the origin with Gautam Buddha and his disciples who Stitched discarded clothes to cover themselves. The Kantha work also finds mention in the writings of Rabindranath Tagore. He established the famous Vishwa Bharati university in Shanti Niketan for promoting various arts. This place was instrumental in the revival of the craft. Today, Shanti Niketan and its boundary villages is the most popular destination for finding kantha products.
Kantha has helped change the lives of the women of rural Bengal. Though the art has been commercialized, it cannot be replicated with machines. Many women in the villages are taking up embroidery to improve their economic condition. It has become a symbol of woman empowerment.
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