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Gara: The Parsi art from Gujarat.

Gara, a Gujarati word for saree, began to be associated with the embroidered sarees worn by the Parsi women. Since it was used typically for the saree, the embroidery itself came to be known as Gara. It is also popular for its association with the Parsi community. The Parsi Gara is not just an ornately embroidered saree, it is a unique narrative about the history and culture of this community.

The Parsis were originally inhabitants of Persia and followers of Zoroastrianism. Forced by the Arabic invasion, they migrated into India and settled in the western part of Gujarat in 936 AD. Over the centuries, while they retained their customs and beliefs, they gradually adopted not only Gujarati language and food but also their ways of clothing.

The story of Gara embroidery begins in the 19th century with the Parsi men venturing into the sea to trade with China. They traded Indian cotton and opium to bring back tea and chinaware. It was from these journeys did the Parsi men bring the fine silk fabric with oriental patterns for their women who used it to make sarees. The Parsi Gara was inspired by these saree. The wealth coming from the trade and getting education in the convents, the Parsis desired to create an identity for themselves. The Gara became a medium for this. The silk fabric and technique from China and combination of Persian and Indian motifs is what led to the evolution of the unique Gara embroidery.

From the 19th century onward, Chinese craftsmen travelled to India. They sold their products on the streets of Gujarat as door-to door vendors or pherias. The Parsi homes were their resting places. The pherias would leave huge bundles of their works in these homes, taking a few to sell on their bicycles. In the afternoons, they sat in the verandahs working their craft. The first Parsi gara were conceived in these verandahs when the women began to learn the embroidery from these ‘pherias.’ Variations were made, new ideas were incorporated and soon the Parsis found their trademark.

Parsi embroidery is typically done with silk threads in white or pastel colors on a dark base fabric. The motifs are floral patterns and birds inheriting from the Chinese mythology and closeness of Persian culture with nature. The embroidery described as ‘painting with a needle’ employs the satin stitch, aari stitch, petit point stitch and intricate french knots or the forbidden khakha stitch.

A traditional Gara comes in three basic styles:

  • A dense all over jaal pattern, the most expensive style usually worn for ceremonies.
  • A border and a pallu with small motifs, popular with Parsi women for small occasions and family gathering.
  • A running border that can be stitched on to the saree, and again be reused on a new fabric.

Like most crafts of India ‘Gara’ too went through a bad phase in the British era. Its popularity declined in the 1930s due to the communist upheaval in China and the khadi movement in India. The introduction of mass production and availability of easier and cheaper options were a further setback. However, this beautiful embroidery is being revived as the interest in traditional handicraft is increasing. A lot of attempts are being made to bring back the glory of the Parsi work and giving it a modern twist to suit the contemporary trends. One can find tops, jackets, scarves,shawls and even lehenga with Parsi designs. New fabrics as crepe, chiffon are preferred instead of heavy silks.

The stunning hand embroidered Gara comes with a high price tag and is usually given to the younger generation as a part of family heirloom. These days a machine made version is also available that is beautiful and easily affordable. The fusion of Indian, Chinese, and Persian symbology is unique reminder of ancient, peaceful global relationship and co-existence, something that we really need today.

References:

https://missing-dots.in/embroideries/gara-the-parsi-craft/ Sapna Rani Kulshreshtha