Chikankari: Shaan-e-Awadh
Chikankari is the traditional hand embroidery from Lucknow. It is a symbol of Awadh’s rich heritage and culture.Like most of the embroideries of India, chikankari also traces its origin in Persia and came to India in the 15th-16th century. Chikan means fine and delicate patterns and chikankari is indeed the finest textile decoration style.
Chikankari is said to have been introduced by Mughal Queen Nur Jahan, who embroidered a handkerchief for her husband Jahangir. There are many stories about the beginning of Chikankari in Lucknow. A popular one is of a peasant who offered water to a thirsty traveller who was passing from his fields, in return the traveller taught him this art so that the peasant and his family would never sleep hungry. Another interesting story I learnt on a train journey was that chikankari was nurtured in the harem of the Nawab of Awadh. The Nawab’s Bengali wife presented him with a white embroidered cap for Eid. the rewards she received made other women jealous and they began learning the craft to impress the Nawab.
Chikankari work is the authentic artwork of Lucknow. The delicate and intricate work also reflects the elegance and sophistication of which the Nawabs were known for. The patterns and motifs are generally floral and geometric revealing its Persian influence.
Chikankari is an art which transforms the plainest cloth into flowing yards of magic. There are three types of stitches used in Chikankari-
- Flat stitches - Tepchi( Running stitch ), Ghaspatti( Filling stitch ) used for leaves and petals and Bakhia( Herringbone stitch ). The Bakhia is the most used stitch. It can be done from both sides of the cloth. Bhakhia, when done on the wrong side, creates a shadow on the front. The flat stitches are commonly used and Chikan work is recognised by them.
- Embossed stitches - These are bolder stitches and give a grainy appearance. Murri( French knot ), Hool( Button hole ), Phanda and Janjira( Chain stitch ) come under this category.
- Jaali work - This is the most striking feature of chikan, where a delicate net effect is created. It requires extremely intricate work. Makri( spider ) and Taj Jaali are popular examples of jaali.
Chikankari has evolved with time. It has opened up to fusion to win over the hearts of the buyers. Initially, Chikankari was done on muslin with white yarn called ‘Tanjeb’. Nowadays coloured and silk threads are used on fabrics like cotton, chiffon, georgette, silk and any fabric which is light and highlights the embroidery. The use of various add-on like Mukeish, sequins, zari beads and mirrors along with the traditional embroidery has taken this craft to new heights.
There are hundreds of shops in Lucknow and all over the country where we can pick up clothes in affordable ranges. Chikankari is not only popular for women’s attire, it is done on men’s kurta, shirt and home furnishings. Now chikankari is also becoming a part of wedding dresses. Chikankari is one of the primary industries of Lucknow. It is supporting thousands of craftsmen who are engaged in various processes involved in this craft.
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