Banjara: The craft of the wanderer
The Banjaras are semi-Nomadic tribes, usually found in the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra and Telangana. They were an important part of the economy in the medieval period. As professional transporters, the Banjaras travelled in bullock or camel driven carts carrying essential items as salt, grains or anything that they could trade. They were hired by traders to carry their goods to far off places. Their caravans would halt on the outskirts of the town where they stayed for a fortnight or more, to trade with the local people. The Banjaras, were welcomed, not only for the trade they brought but also for the wisdom and stories they acquired from their travels. They were fortune tellers, gave ayurvedic solution, entertained people with music, dance and stories of their Journey. Indian culture which is so diverse, yet so similar and unified, All thanks to travelling banjara and their stories.
The Banjaras trace their origin from north-west region of India in the state of Rajasthan. Their share their ancestry with the Roma Gypsies. They are recognised by their colourful dress and ornaments. The women wear Ghagra(skirt), Kancholi( a backless top) and odhani embroidered heavily with colourful threads, mirrors and cowries. The embroidery reflects the vibrant lifestyle of the Banjaras. The mirrors and cowries are an important part of the embroidery and considered auspicious.
After independence, most of these tribes have settled down in villages as farm Labourers and daily wage earners. The women are keeping their traditional skills alive. They are using their trademark embroidery commercially to create fashionable items.
The embroidery involves variations of chain, running and herringbone stitches with applique work, mirrors, shells and beads. Patterns in geometric shapes using bright coloured threads and embellishments are making fashion statements. The embroidery is being used to create beautiful dresses, bags, bedcovers and other decorative items.
Though the basic style remains the same within the Banjara tribes, little variations can be seen due to the regional influence. There are many tribal craft in every region of India. Here we will talk about a few that are recognised by their unique embroidery.
Many believes that the banjaras originated in Marwar region of Rajasthan. They have a unique technique. They stitch their designs, on a thin piece of fabric with varying chain stitch techniques. Once the design is completed, They cut is out and the finished design is “appliqued” on the final product.
The Banjaras living in the Malwa and Nimar region of Madhya Pradesh create designs according to the weave of the cloth and the textured effect is achieved by varying colours and stitches on geometric patterns and the motifs highlighted by cross stitch.
The Banni embroidery practised by the Lohana tribe of Gujarat uses silk floss, the designs inspired by the Phulkari of Punjab.
The embroidery of Lambanis living in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana is a mix of applique , mirrors and beads. Bright red, yellow, black and white cloth is laid in bands and joined with a white criss-cross stitch.
Though with the changing times the banjaras are adapting to contemporary ways of life, The women have kept themselves connected to their traditions through embroidery. They are picking up their needles to reach out to the world. The various pieces of their wardrobe, ghagra, cholis, odhanis and jackets and many other items making fashion statements. The vibrancy of their craft has caught the fancy of many international brands. An embroidered skirt or a Jacket teamed with plain tops or carrying a banjara bag is trendy.
These days more women are taking up embroidery as a profession to improve their economic condition and making them more self-sustained and confident.